Kayaking in Sardinia (Northeast area)

 

Beautiful azure waters. Fantastic sandy beaches. Many interesting bays. We launched from We paddled the northeastern part of the island and then took a ferry to La Maddalena islands. 

Getting there: Overnight ferry from Livorno to Olbia. Choose your ferry well. 

There's a campground not too far from Olbia that can be used as the launching point. We talked to the owner/operator and let them know of our launch plans. 

We launched from Campground Cugnana. We paddled northward camping in Porto Rosso, Isola dela Bisce (!), Campo Fierro before we headed to Palau to catch our ferry to Maddalena. Generally, wild camping is not allowed. Isola Bisce - we were saved by this island and were spared by the thunder storm. We found out in the morning that camping or stopping here was not allowed. Oops!

In La Maddalena, we drove up to Abbatoggia Village in the north end of Maddalena. Great launching point for interesting islets. Winds tend to pick up here in a heartbeat. This means that it's great for sailboats; kayaks are a rarity and tend to be looked at as flotsam by some sailors it seems.

In Maddalena, we took day trips. A trip up to the Isola Spargi and we also stayed put when the winds were quite high. We perched ourselves at Abbatogia Village. 

More LATER 

Isola de la Bisce

Paddling around Porto Cervo

Launched from  

High winds were our nemesis for this trip. 

More later. 

Great Bear Rainforest - Klemtu

BC Ferry from Port Hardy to Klemtu (July 29 - Aug 10)

One could camp around Port Hardy and then catch the early morning ferry to Klemtu. We were up by 5:00 am and off to the BC Ferries terminal.

We loaded our boats onto racks provided by BC Ferries. Our equipment was stored in one of their trailers. We left our trucks at the terminal. This is it! Sailing from 7am and arriving Klemtu Harbour around 2pm. 

Boats were unloaded from the racks; camping equipment and food unloaded from the trailer. We carried our boats from the parking lot to the rocks around the ferry terminal ramp. 

 

We paddled towards the village about 2 km to fill our waterbags with water. There was a hose at of the warehouses along the docks to which the locals directed us. It was after 7pm by the time we started paddling up the channel. AFter paddling past Jane Island across towards Boat Bluff, we turned around and looked for a flat rock on Jane Island on which to set up camp. We were going to lose the little amount of daylight remaining. 

We quickly emptied our kayaks and pulled them up the rocks. It was after 9pm by the time we were ready to make dinner. We were all hungry and thirsty; it's been a long day.

 

 

 

 

DAY 2: Jane Island rock to Meyer Channel Elbow. There were large gaps between rocks but our backs survived the night. We paddled towards Meyer Channel and down to the elbow of the channel.

We were met by strong winds tunnelling through the Meyer channel. There was a beach at the elbow of the channel. This was the camp for a couple of days. If you look at a map of the area, it's actually along the same lines as the ferry terminal in Klemtu. We decided to take a rest day: hanging out at our beach, attempting a hike and swimming.

This was our kitchen

DAY4:  Meyer Channel to Milne Island

It was a slog but it felt good to be carrying on with our trip. We were on the water by mid-morning. The wind picked up through the channel. There was no rush to get to Milne. It may have worked out to our advantage to let the winds die down. Once we hit the outer part of the channel and had Milne on our sites, the winds seemed to relent (or maybe we found shelter from the wind).

Milne to Monk Island via Laidlaw Islands

 

 Monk Island to Kitasoo Bay via Aitken

 

 

The Broughtons

Malcolm Island to Leg Cove

Launch from Mitchell Bay
There's a boat club and dock around Meynell Bay (Kaleva Road). We set off after 4pm towards Leg Cove.
The current tends to run fast as you paddle south, so...time it well.

Stubbs Island to Leg Harbour: there were humpbacks feeding in the area. Great start to our trip!
We paddled through Plumper Island towards Leg Cove. This was going to be home for the next few days. We arrived close to 8pm, had dinner and nighty-night.

DAY 1: It was a gray morning; damp. While we were paddling out, a boatload of people with kayaks were dropped off at our bay. It was a family: Fredy (BBC Planet - cinematographer/presenter) with his parents and 2 daughters. Our neighbours.

We tried to paddle towards Swanson Channel but couldn't get through the standing wall of water. We turned around and paddled towards Johnstone Straight instead. There were humpbacks in the area, too. After having a peek we headed back towards our channel. The fog set in. It was thick and visibility was suddenly diminished. We paddled close to rocks not too far away from camp. Likely a 1km paddle. While in the water, the 4 of us heard some strange sounds in the waters around us. It sounded like we were surrounded by blowing sounds. Gotta be a blow-hole sound(?) or maybe a stellar sea lion.  Caro, Arndt and Dom huddled together. Craig paddled away to check it out. We didn't see him after a 10 meter distance. Arndt paddled away, too. Caro and Dom paddled together nervously following Arndt and Craig's voices. There was Craig up on the rock; helped us out of our boats. Visibility improved within minutes and there in the sky was the sun and great patches of blue sky. We sat and listened and saw humpbacks feeding on the other end of the bay. 

At dinner, we used the tarp as a screen and had a hand puppet show. Our neighbours were likely already asleep.

Watching from Craig's Rock as Inukshuk was feeding 

 

The view from Craig's Rock aka Dinner Rock

 

DAY 2: Paddle to Mel's Beach and then across Cormorant Channel towards Flower Island
Nice little bays as we paddled down towards Mels Beach. We crossed the channel and watched a pod of Orca close to Flower Island. 

Pod of Orca close to Flower Island

Paddling back, about 1 km away, we saw yet another humpback and this time breaching as we crossed Cormorant Channel! What a trip. 

We meandered between the smaller islands once we got across the channel. As we entered the large bay close to home, we were met by a stellar sea lion. It leapt out of the water a few times as if to escort us back. "No thanks. We know the way back."

Everyone agreed that rather than head back, we should eat at Craig's rock. Craig and Arndt fetched the kitchen while Caro and Dom paddled to Craig's rock. Fredy and his family were already there. Apparently, there was a dinner show...presented by the humpbacks. Caro and Dom were still in their boats when we saw a humpback lunge feeding just 100 metres away. This happened a few times. We just hoped that Craid and Arndt could be there in time to catch the show. 

Dinner on the Rock: What a fabulous location for our dinner. There were humpbacks feeding across the bay in 3 different directions. As we were running out of light, we got back in our boats and headed back to camp.

 DAY 3: We parted ways with Fredy and his family. We learned that he had just finished filming a program for BBC Earth (for a program to be presented by David Attenborough). 

We packed up camp and headed back. We stopped at Cormorant Marine Channel for a long lunch on the rocks. Wow! Yet another show. While Craig and I were in the water, there were humpbacks feeding quite close to us. There were a pair (mother and calf) that went through the fast current in front of us where Craig had been surfing. Did they know that Craig was even there? 

Sitting at Cormorant Channel Marine Park - 2 humpbacks

 

"We've got company." Looking towards Stubbs Island from Cormorant Channel Marine Park

Paddling back we came across some strong current as we approached Stubbs Island. Not just that. There was also a large male stellar sea lion whom we had disturbed during his sleep. Paddle!!!!

What a trip! 

 

Discovery Islands (Surge Narrows)

Tidal rapids and currents, sea urchins, star fish, sea anemones and emerald waters are highlights of our recent paddling trip to this area.

Quadra Island - If you drive up to the northeastern part of the island towards the area of the Surge Narrows rapid viewing trail, you'll encounter a boat launch from where you can start your paddling trip.

A nice day trip takes you through Surge Narrows Marine Park where you can paddle into little bays and rocks. Lots of starfish and bat stars to be seen around the rocks. We puttered around from 11am till 4pm and had lots of time to play in the current.

Discovery Lodge is a great option for hard-roof lodging.

More to follow...